Note that the back studs, back rafter plate, and rafters are 2x3s, but the front studs are 2x4s and the front rafter support is 2×6. Installing your studs in this fashion gives you a wider surface to screw your siding to and reduces the nooks and crannies you need to clean out later. When toenailing these boards do not install them as if you were building a house wall, but instead, have the long surface facing out. The whole frame will be very unstable until you add your siding, so be patient. I use a pneumatic finish nailer to toenail these boards in place, but you can do the same with regular finish nails or screws. Next, follow the cut sheet and pre-cut your studs, rafters, and front support. If there is plywood overhanging the frame when you’re done screwing it down completely, use a router or saw to remove the excess since it will cause you issues later. Start by screwing an edge along one base runner, then square the rest of the frame to the sheet of plywood. Once you’ve cut your floor as square as possible, screw it to your base frame using 1 1/4” decking screws. You don’t want to over-expose your backyard chickens to pressure-treating chemicals. I don’t suggest using a pressure-treated sheet for the floor unless you intend to cover it with something like linoleum. Now is a good time to consider painting the floor or adding linoleum if that’s your preference. When you’re thinking about how to clean a chicken coop, you’ll be thankful for a solid floor with no missing chunks. Be selective when buying this sheet of plywood and find a sheet with minimal imperfections. Consider pre-drilling for your screws since the 2x3s may split on the ends.įinally, cut a mid-grade 1/2” sheet of plywood to 3′ by 7′ to serve as your floor. To assemble the base, use 3” deck screws or 3” ribbed air nails. If you want to upgrade these to 2x4s or use pressure-treated 2x4s, it will add to the longevity of the frame, but also add to the weight which may be an issue if you plan to move it later. Spaced equally, five joists will give you 21” on center which is more than enough for me to walk on while building. Next, cut five 2×3 pine studs 32 7/8” long for floor joists. I highly suggest setting piers with patio block for the runners to sit on to keep the wood from being directly exposed to the ground, especially if you opt to use regular pine instead of pressure-treated. If you’re building your coop in place, you can skip that step. I cut a bevel on both ends of the runners to make my life easier when moving it into its final destination since a 90-degree cut digs in every time I try to move it around. In the interest of longevity, I use 2×6 pressure-treated timbers as main runners to build the base of the coop. I sold these coops under the name The Red Coop Company, so don’t be confused by these old free chicken coop plan instructions, and disregard the old chicken door method as well as the roof measurements. Most of my customers keep their feed and water outside the coop since they usually include a run or let the chickens free range during the day. The rule of thumb is one nest box per eight to 10 hens, so the two nests I included were enough for the maximum of 12. This coop works as a full-time coop for up to 6 birds, at most 12 with a daily run or free-range. It’s a demanding list if you think about it, but my free chicken coop plan incorporates all that along with provisions for ventilation, removable perch space, accommodations for a 12” deep bedding pack, nesting space, and a way to add electricity without the customer having to modify the coop themselves. Have no exposed fasteners for chickens or humans to catch themselves on.Be built with the least amount of wasted scrap material and time.Have durable roofing that must survive at least an hourlong 75mph wind (for delivery).Provide ample protection from the elements.While keeping the balance, I was unwilling to bend on a few points. My design slowly evolved into a well-rehearsed pattern, becoming a balancing act between form, function, and economy. The Back Story Behind My Free Chicken Coop Planīefore I began blogging about chickens, I built and sold simple 3’x7′ backyard chicken coops to folks all over New England and New York. Most people go overboard, give up, or give in to temptation entirely and buy one of those outrageously expensive designer chicken coops. I’d like to offer my personal design as an easy free chicken coop plan alternative. Many first-time backyard chicken keepers intend to build their own coop, but the first and most frustrating question usually is: what does a chicken coop need? Information paralysis usually ensues, but in reality, your chickens really don’t need much to thrive.
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